Germes Guide

Wood types for garden furniture
six timbers and their durability compared

Which wood is right for garden furniture comes down to a single measure: durability against wood-destroying fungi. A European standard sets it out in five classes. This page places the six timbers from our made-to-measure range, explains why the class covers heartwood only, and what that means for how long a piece lasts.

The five durability classes under EN 350

A wood durability class is not a marketing term but a measured result. The European standard EN 350 records how much mass a sample loses to wood-destroying fungi under test, and that mass loss determines the class.

ClassDescriptionMass loss under test
1very durableno more than 5 percent
2durableover 5 up to 10 percent
3moderately durableover 10 up to 15 percent
4slightly durableover 15 up to 30 percent
5not durablemore than 30 percent

Wood types for garden furniture in our made-to-measure range

Six timbers are available for made-to-measure garden furniture. They differ by several durability classes, and that is the most important difference between them.

TimberClass under EN 350OriginWhere it stands
Teak1South and Southeast Asiavery durable, natural oils and gum resins, the benchmark for outdoors
Cumaru1 to 2South Americavery durable to durable, an exceptionally heavy and hard timber
Garapa1 to 2South Americavery durable to durable, light in colour, far lighter than cumaru
Oak2Europedurable, the most resistant European timber in this comparison
Douglas fir3 to 4Europemoderately to slightly durable, inexpensive, wants a sheltered spot
Larch3 to 4Europemoderately to slightly durable, a European classic with a limited service life
Two groups

Tropical hardwood and European timber

The six split into two groups, and the dividing line runs exactly between class 2 and class 3. That is no coincidence but a matter of how the trees grow.

Hardwood garden furniture, teak, cumaru and garapa

Slow grown, dense and rich in the extractives that fend off fungi and insects. They reach classes 1 and 2 and last outdoors without chemical preservatives. The price is correspondingly higher, and it is worth asking about origin and quality, with teak especially about the trade grade.

The European timbers, oak, Douglas fir and larch

Shorter transport distances, lower price, less durability. Oak is the strongest of them at class 2. Douglas fir and larch sit at 3 to 4, so they only cope for a limited time in ground contact or permanent damp. On a covered terrace they remain a sensible and much cheaper choice.

Siberian larch is not more durable

A widespread misconception: slower growth in a cold climate does make the timber denser, but the classification stays at 3 to 4. The name of the region on its own is not a quality mark.

What to ask about tropical timber

Country of origin, quality grade and certification. With teak, the trade grade decides whether heartwood was used at all, and durability follows from that.

What the class does not tell you

It covers heartwood only
The decisive sentence in the standard: durability classes refer exclusively to heartwood. Sapwood, the outer and younger part of the trunk, is always regarded as not durable unless test data show otherwise. A piece made from a class 1 timber is therefore durable only where heartwood was actually used. With teak, that is precisely what the grades A to C decide.
Why some timbers carry a range
Figures such as 1 to 2 or 3 to 4 are expressly provided for in the standard. If test values spread across two classes with at least 40 percent falling in each, the range is stated rather than an average. Wood is a natural material, and the site, age and origin of a tree show up in the measurement.
It says nothing about looks, weight or price
The class describes resistance to fungal attack and nothing else. Whether a timber is light or dark, heavy to carry, pleasant to touch and what it costs are separate questions. Cumaru and garapa share a class and are still very different woods.
Making the choice

Which timber for which spot

The best wood for outdoor furniture is not automatically the most durable one. Four questions get you there faster than any class number.

Covered or out in the open?

Standing free in the garden, uncovered and in ground contact, class 1 or 2 pays off: teak, cumaru, garapa or oak. On a covered terrace, Douglas fir and larch do the job well, because the permanent damp that attacks them is absent.

How long should it last?

A class 1 timber survives decades outdoors, a class 3 timber years rather than decades. If you rearrange the garden every few years, you do not need the top class.

Do you want to maintain it?

All six grey to a silver patina if left untreated, with no loss of strength. Keeping the original colour means oiling regularly and continuing to do so. Oiling once and then stopping leads to blotchy greying.

How much does weight matter?

Cumaru is among the heaviest timbers there is. For a fixed bench that is an advantage, for a piece you move around often rather less so. Garapa and the European timbers are considerably easier to shift.

Frequently asked questions

Frequently Asked Questions

Measured by durability under EN 350, teak leads the six at class 1, followed by cumaru and garapa at 1 to 2 and oak at 2. For a covered spot, however, Douglas fir and larch at class 3 to 4 are perfectly adequate and considerably cheaper. Best therefore means suited to the location, not the highest class.

That depends on the durability class and on the location. Class 1 timbers last decades outdoors, class 3 to 4 rather a number of years, particularly in ground contact and permanent damp. What also matters is whether heartwood was actually used, because the class applies only to that.

It describes how well a timber resists wood-destroying fungi. The measure is the mass loss of a sample under test according to EN 350. Class 1 means no more than 5 percent loss and counts as very durable, class 5 means more than 30 percent and counts as not durable.

In durability usually yes, but not always by a wide margin. Oak reaches class 2, close to cumaru and garapa. On a covered spot the practical difference is small, and European timber travels a far shorter distance.

No, not for longevity, because the durability sits in the timber itself. Oil only preserves the original colour. If you decide to do it, repeat once a year. Otherwise let the wood grey evenly from the start.

Six timbers, one location, we find the match

Tell us where the furniture will stand, whether it is covered and how much maintenance you plan on. We will tell you which of the six makes sense there.