Wall Cushion Installation Guide

Solid walls (masonry, concrete):

• Most suitable
• Use the dowels and screws provided
• Very stable and secure fastening possible

Plasterboard/drywall (hollow walls):

• Possible, but with restrictions
• The maximum load depends on the paneling:
  • Single paneling (1 layer): maximum 25 kg per dowel (plastic) or 30 kg (metal)
  • Double paneling (2 layers): maximum 40 kg (plastic) or 50 kg (metal)
• For heavy upholstery, metal cavity dowels are essential
• For large upholstery, you should use several fixing points to distribute the weight

Wooden walls:

• No problem
• Use the lag screws provided
• Pre-drilling with a 3-4 mm drill bit is recommended to prevent the wood from splitting

This is a common concern among DIY enthusiasts. The following methods can help:

Visual clues:

• Look for horizontal or vertical lines/unevenness on the wall surface
• Markings, scratches, or old drill holes often indicate the location of pipes or wires
• According to DIN 18015-3, electrical wires typically run:
  • 30 cm from the bottom (at floor level)
  • 15 cm next to door frames (horizontally)
  • Vertically above sockets/switches

Professional tools:

• Wire detector (multi-detector): Detects live and dead wires
• Cost: approx. $20–50 at a hardware store or online shop
• Application: Thoroughly scan the wall before drilling

Contact a professional:

• For older houses or if you are unsure: Consult an electrician before installation
• This is safer and costs less than repairs after cable damage

During installation:

• Drill carefully; if you encounter resistance (except in stone), stop immediately
• Never drill into areas that are already damaged

No, this is not recommended. Here are the reasons:

• Safety risk: Sockets and switches must be easily accessible
• Heat buildup: Upholstery can cause heat to build up, which is a fire hazard
• Practical problem: You can't access the outlet/switch

Solution:

• Plan your wall upholstery so that it is at least 15–20 cm away from sockets and switches
• If there is a power outlet directly in the installation area, you can have the switch/power outlet moved by an electrician before installing the upholstery (cost: approx. $100–200).

Essential:

• Drill / cordless screwdriver
• Drill bit (8 mm for dowels in masonry; 3-4 mm for wooden walls)
• Spirit level
• Ruler or steel ruler
• Pencil
• Screwdriver (suitable for screw heads)
• Hammer (for driving in the dowels)

Recommended:

• Cable detector (for locating electrical cables)
• Hammer drill (for hard masonry)
• Dowel gauge or drilling template
• Cotton gloves
• Safety goggles

A common question that leads to uncertainty:

Rule of thumb:

• Tighten the screws with moderate force – not too loose, not too tight
• The screws should be tightened so that they can no longer be turned by hand, but without requiring extreme force.
• A good rule of thumb: The screw should be tightened with a cordless screwdriver set to level 2–3 out of 10 (depending on the model).

Warning signs (too much force):

• The screws turn into the dowel instead of spreading it
• The dowel swells or squashes.
• For plasterboard: Cracks around the drill hole.

Warning signs (too little force):

• The cushion hangs crookedly or slowly slips down
• The eyelets are not securely anchored in the screws

Tip: First try out how much force is required at one fixing point before tightening the others.

This is the most common problem encountered by DIY installers. Possible causes:

Wall surface not level:

• Many walls are not perfectly level – this is completely normal
• Solution: Use a spirit level to check all fixing points several times before tightening
• If necessary, use washers under certain screws

Drilling points not at the same height:

• The most common cause
• Solution: Use a laser level or long steel ruler to mark a horizontal line on the wall and align it accordingly

Uneven walls are very common. There are several possible solutions:

Option 1: Use washers

• Place washers between the stainless steel knob and the wall surface
• This compensates for small unevenness (up to approx. 5 mm).
• Disadvantage: Not ideal for large unevenness.

Option 2: Use a shim/spacer.

• Use stainless steel spacers (approx. 10–20 mm thick).
• These raise the pad and compensate for unevenness.
• Available at hardware stores or online.

Option 3: Attach the pad at several points.

• With more attachment points (6–8 instead of 4–5), you can distribute the weight better
• The padding will follow the wall contour less visibly

Option 4: Hire a specialist company

• For very uneven walls: Call in a professional.
• They can level the wall surface before installation if necessary.