Germes Guide

What does solution dyed mean?
How it differs from fabrics dyed after the fibre is made

Solution dyed means the colour pigment is mixed into the liquid polymer before the fibre itself exists. The colour then sits inside the core of the filament rather than on its surface. This page explains how that differs from conventional dyeing, what it means for colour fastness and cleaning, and how to spot it on a data sheet.

Basics

How solution dyed fibres are made

Man-made fibres are produced by forcing a viscous mass through the fine holes of a spinneret. Where exactly in that sequence the colour is added decides everything that follows.

The colour comes before the fibre

The pigment is mixed into the molten polymer or the dissolved cellulose before that mass is extruded through the spinneret. Only then does the filament come into being. The EU reference document for the textiles industry describes exactly this sequence and calls the combination of dyeing and spinning solution dyeing.

The pigment sits in the core

Because the pigment fuses with the fibre mass, it is part of the filament rather than a layer on top of it. UV light reaches it less easily. And when the fibre surface wears down over the years, the same colour appears underneath instead of a pale core.

One process, many names

Solution dyed, dope dyed, spun dyed and mass coloured all describe the same technique. German data sheets say spinndüsengefärbt or durchgefärbt. Whichever term you meet, the process behind it is identical.

No dye bath, no effluent

Because the finished fabric never needs dyeing, the entire wet dyeing stage disappears along with its dye bath, auxiliaries and rinsing cycles. That is the reason for the much better resource figures further down this page.

When in production the colour is added

A textile can receive its colour at very different points in its making. The EU reference document for the textiles industry lists these stages. As a rule of thumb, the earlier the dyeing, the deeper the colour sits.

Dyeing stageWhat is dyedWhere the colour ends up
Solution dyeingthe polymer mass before spinningin the core of every single fibre
Top and stock dyeingloose fibres before spinningdrawn into the fibre from outside
Yarn dyeingthe finished spun yarnon the yarn, on the outside
Piece dyeingthe finished woven or knitted clothon the cloth, on the outside
Garment dyeingthe sewn end producton the finished item, on the outside

Solution dyed and conventionally dyed side by side

Both routes produce coloured fabric, but they behave differently in daily use. The figures in the last three rows come from our own range.

PropertySolution dyedDyed afterwards
Point of dyeingbefore the fibre is spunafter spinning or after weaving
Position of the colourantin the fibre coreon the fibre surface
Behaviour under abrasionthe same colour appears underneaththe pale fibre core becomes visible
Diluted bleach for stain removalpossible, one part in twenty parts waternot possible
Choice of coloursfixed manufacturer collectionwider choice of colours possible
Lightfastness in our range7/8 to 8/84-6/8
Colour warranty in our range5 years from the manufacturerno colour warranty

Three common mistakes

Yarn dyeing is not the same as piece dyeing
Both happen after the fibre exists, but they act at different points: yarn dyeing puts the finished filament into the dye bath, piece dyeing the finished cloth. Treating them as one thing leads to misreading a data sheet. What matters for the result, though, is something else entirely: neither route brings the colour into the fibre core. Only solution dyeing does that.
The process protects the colour, not the fibre
Solution dyeing makes the colour durable. It does not make the fibre UV resistant. Polyester breaks down under UV radiation at material level considerably faster than acrylic. That is why solution dyed polyester does not last as long as solution dyed acrylic despite almost identical lightfastness ratings. It is also why the manufacturer gives five years on the Agora fabrics while we give two years of our own colour warranty on Polysun and Olefin.
Solution dyed fabrics fade eventually too
No textile is immune to UV radiation. The process pushes the moment far into the future, it does not abolish it. Covering or storing cushions and seat pads during longer periods of non-use noticeably extends colour freshness on top of that.
Resources

What dropping the dye bath saves

The benefit is not only a colour benefit. Because the entire wet dyeing stage disappears, consumption and effluent fall considerably. The figures below are stated in the EU reference document on best available techniques for the textiles industry and go back to a life cycle assessment by Terinte and others in the Journal of Cleaner Production.

About half the water and energy

Compared with conventional wet dyeing of the same fabric, solution dyeing uses 50 per cent less energy and 50 per cent less water. On top of that, no dyehouse effluent arises that would have to be treated later.

A 60 per cent smaller carbon footprint

The same comparison reports a carbon footprint lower by 60 per cent. It also needs 20 per cent less pigment, because nothing is left behind in a dye bath when the pigment is mixed into the mass.

Measured on modal fibres

In fairness: these figures come from a life cycle assessment for modal fibres. No publicly comparable values exist for acrylic and polyester. The direction is the same, because the same process step is omitted, but the exact magnitude cannot be transferred one to one.

Which of our fabrics are solution dyed

All details come from the manufacturers' data sheets. Lightfastness is tested to ISO 105-B02 and stated on the eight step scale, where 8 is the highest value.

FabricDyeingLightfastnessColour warranty
Agora Airsolution dyed acrylic7-8/85 years, manufacturer
Agora Lisosolution dyed acrylic7-8/85 years, manufacturer
Agora Panamasolution dyed acrylic7-8/85 years, manufacturer
Agora Linessolution dyed acrylic7-8/85 years, manufacturer
Agora Rayuresolution dyed acrylic7-8/85 years, manufacturer
Agora Simmetriasolution dyed acrylic7/85 years, manufacturer
Agora Liso Waterproofsolution dyed acrylic with laminate7-8/85 years, manufacturer
Agora Life Lisosolution dyed acrylic, recycled content7/85 years, manufacturer
Agora Life Panamasolution dyed acrylic, recycled content7/85 years, manufacturer
Agora Life Wabisolution dyed acrylic, recycled content7/85 years, manufacturer
Sunbrella Nattésolution dyed acrylic8/85 years, manufacturer
Polysunsolution dyed polyester7-8/82 years, Germes
Dralon (Acrisol Liso)conventionally dyed4-6/8none
Frequently asked questions

Frequently Asked Questions

The colour pigment is mixed into the liquid polymer before that mass is pressed through the spinneret into a fibre. The colour is therefore part of the filament and sits in its core rather than as a layer on its surface.

The point in time. Solution dyeing happens before the fibre exists, yarn dyeing treats the finished spun filament, piece dyeing the finished woven cloth. Only the first puts the colour into the fibre core. Yarn dyeing and piece dyeing apply it from outside.

Yes. Solution dyed, dope dyed, spun dyed and mass coloured are all names for the same process, as are the German terms spinndüsengefärbt and durchgefärbt. The technique behind them is identical.

The colour lasts considerably longer, which shows in our range as a lightfastness of 7/8 to 8/8 against 4-6/8 for conventional dyeing. For the life of the fabric the fibre itself matters as well: acrylic withstands UV radiation better than polyester, even when both are solution dyed.

With our solution dyed acrylic fabrics yes, at one part bleach to twenty parts water, left to act briefly and then rinsed thoroughly with clean water. Mould stains, bird droppings and sun cream come out this way. Two exceptions: for Sunbrella the manufacturer's care instructions apply and they do not provide for bleach. And conventionally dyed fabrics such as Dralon do not tolerate bleach at all, not even diluted.

All Agora fabrics including the Agora Life line with recycled content, plus Sunbrella Natté and the polyester fabric Polysun. Conventionally dyed in our range is Dralon in the Acrisol Liso version, which in return offers a wider choice of colours at a lower price.

Not sure which dyeing method suits your project?

Tell us where the fabric will be used and how long it stays there. We will tell you whether the premium for a solution dyed fabric pays off in your case.