Step-by-step instructions

Installing your cable awning in
3 options

This guide shows you how to install your cable tension awning yourself - in three options, depending on your roof structure. Whether you have a fascia board, wooden or metal rafters, or prefer a premium stainless steel solution: here you will find the right steps with every part and every move explained.

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This guide covers:

Cable tension awning made to measure

Made to measure cable tension awning by germes

This installation guide applies to our made to measure cable tension awning. Every shading panel is sewn to your measurements and delivered complete with all mounting parts.

  • Premium fabrics: Agora Liso, Dralon or Polysun
  • Complete delivery: polyester rope, glides, stopper, operating rod
  • Made to your measurements - Made in Germany
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First: the right choice

Which mounting option suits you?

Three mounting options are available - it depends on your roof structure. Check whether there is a fascia board at the front and at the back, whether you fix directly to the side of the rafters, or whether you prefer a compact stainless steel solution.

Cable tension awning mounted on a fascia board between the rafters

Option 1 - fascia board

For roof structures with a fascia board at the front and at the back. The classic solution with screw hooks and the standard cable tensioner.

Go to option 1
Angle cable tensioner mounted on a wooden rafter with an iron bracket

Option 2 - angle tensioner

For roofs without a fascia board. Fixing to the side of the rafters (wood or metal) with galvanised angle brackets.

Go to option 2
Compact stainless steel cable tensioner fixed to a wooden rafter

Option 3 - stainless steel

A compact stainless steel mechanism - mounted to the side of the rafters or underneath them, depending on your roof structure.

Go to option 3
Tools and accessories

What you always need

Parts set for the cable tension awning - ropes, glides and stoppers

You need these parts and these tools for every one of the three mounting options. The parts specific to each option are listed directly in the matching section. Polyester rope with a diameter of 2.2 mm and 1,800 N tensile load is the carrying rope for all shading panels. Glides hang the panels on the rope and keep them moving with low friction. Stoppers fix the last panel on the rope with an Allen screw.

  • Polyester rope 2.2 mm diameter, 1,800 N tensile load - two ropes per panel (one per long side)
  • Glides (plastic) - the number depends on how many panel sections you have
  • Stopper - one per shading panel, on the last tube
  • Allen key (for fixing the stopper)
  • Drill (for metal or aluminium rafters: a 4.5 mm pilot hole is mandatory)
  • Screwdriver or cordless screwdriver
  • Pliers (optional, to crimp the rope end)
  • Cable ties (optional, for a steeper roof slope)
Option 1

Fixing to the fascia board (facade mounting)

When does this fit? When your roof structure has a fascia board (a front cross beam) at the front and at the back. This is the classic solution with screw hooks and the standard cable tensioner. Per shading panel you need at least two cable tensioner sets (one for the left side, one for the right side).

Screw hooks and cable tensioner for mounting on the fascia board
Parts for option 1

What you need per shading panel

Per shading panel you need the following - in addition to the general parts from the section above:

  • 4 screw hooks (2 at the front and 2 at the back, into the fascia board)
  • 2 cable tensioners (standard tensioner with screw hook and screw eye - turning it tensions the rope)
  • 4 rope clamps (2 per rope, they hold the rope loops)
Screwing hooks in pairs at the same distance into the fascia board
Step 1

Screw the hooks into the fascia board

Screw 2 hooks into the fascia board at the front and 2 at the back. Make sure the pairs of hooks sit at the same distance on both sides - this is what makes the ropes run parallel later. Hang one glide onto each of the rear screw hooks right away.

Rope clamp holding the rope loop on the screw hook
Step 2

Fix the front end of the rope

Make a loop at one end of the rope and clamp it with a rope clamp. Hook the loop into the front screw hook. This is the fixed end of the rope.

Cable tensioner with screw eye hooked into the screw hook
Step 3

Connect the rear rope end to the cable tensioner

Lay the other end of the rope as a loop around the screw eye of the cable tensioner and clamp it with a rope clamp. Important: the tensioner has to be fully unscrewed beforehand (full length), so there is enough travel left for tensioning. Do not leave the rope too long. Then hook the screw hook of the tensioner into the rear screw hook.

Tensioning the rope by turning the cable tensioner
Step 4

Tension the rope

Turn the screw connection of the tensioner until the rope is taut. Do not over-tension it - the rope should be straight and firm, but not under extreme tensile load.

Both ropes running parallel between the rafters
Step 5

Repeat on the opposite side

Carry out steps 1 to 4 on the opposite rafter. Check that both ropes run parallel - this is the condition for the shading panels to glide cleanly later on.

Connecting glides and stoppers with the aluminum tubes of the fabric panels
Step 6

Hang the glides and mount the panels

Thread the required number of glides onto both ropes. Place the last glide directly on the screw hook on the tensioner side - this fixes the last aluminum tube of the shading panel. Then clip the aluminum tubes of the fabric panels into the glides and stoppers. The tubes sit tight - that is intended (more on this in the tips section further down).

Option 2

Angle cable tensioner between the rafters

When does this fit? When your roof structure has no fascia board and you fix directly to the side of the wooden or metal rafters. The galvanised iron brackets are mounted on the side of both rafter ends and carry the screw hooks. Per shading panel you need two cable tensioner sets.

Iron brackets and screw hooks for mounting with angle cable tensioners
Parts for option 2

What you need per shading panel

Per shading panel you need the following - in addition to the general parts from the section above:

  • 4 iron brackets (galvanised, 2 at the front and 2 at the back)
  • 2 short screw hooks (on the front brackets)
  • 2 long screw hooks (on the rear brackets)
  • 8 contact washers M5
  • 8 hexagon nuts M5
  • Wood screws 5x30 mm (wooden rafters) or self-tapping screws M5x16 mm (aluminium and metal rafters, 4.5 mm pilot hole mandatory)
  • 2 cable tensioners with screw hook and screw eye
  • 4 rope clamps
Fixing an iron bracket to the side of a rafter with 2 screws
Step 1

Mount the iron brackets to the side of the rafters

Fix 2 iron brackets to the side of each rafter end - one at the front and one at the back. On wooden rafters use wood screws 5x30 mm. On aluminium or metal rafters use self-tapping screws M5x16 mm - here a 4.5 mm pilot hole is mandatory, otherwise the material tears.

Short screw hook with contact washer and nut on the front iron bracket
Step 2

Mount the front screw hooks (short)

Mount the short screw hooks with contact washers and hexagon nuts on the front iron brackets. The contact washers keep the nuts from working loose through vibration.

Long screw hook mounted at the back, glide slid onto the threaded rod
Step 3

Mount the rear screw hooks (long) and add the glides

Mount the long screw hooks with contact washers and hexagon nuts on the rear iron brackets. Slide one glide onto the threaded rod of each rear screw hook right away - the glide is then already in the right position for hanging the panel.

Rope loop with rope clamp on the front screw eye
Step 4

Fix the front end of the rope

Make a loop at the end of the rope and clamp it with a rope clamp. Hook the loop into the front screw eye. This is the fixed end of the rope.

Cable tensioner on the rear screw hook - turning it tensions the rope
Step 5

Connect the rear rope end to the tensioner and tension it

Lay the other end of the rope as a loop around the screw eye of the cable tensioner and clamp it with a rope clamp. The tensioner has to be fully unscrewed. Hook the screw hook of the tensioner into the screw hook on the rear iron bracket. Then screw the tensioner closed until the rope sits taut.

Both sides mounted with brackets, ropes running parallel
Step 6

Repeat on the opposite side

Carry out steps 1 to 5 on the opposite rafter. Check that both ropes run parallel.

Clipping the panels with their aluminum tubes into glides and stoppers
Step 7

Hang the glides and mount the panels

Thread the required number of glides onto both ropes. Fix the stopper to the last aluminum tube. Clip the aluminum tubes into the glides and stoppers.

Option 3

Stainless steel cable tensioner - between or beneath the rafters

When does this fit? This option suits a clean and compact stainless steel solution. You can mount the tensioner to the side of the rafters (between the rafters) or underneath the rafter (beneath the rafters) - depending on your roof structure and your preference. For mounting from below we recommend a distance of 3 cm to the roof. Per shading panel you need 18 parts (2 tensioner sets with 9 parts each).

Stainless steel cable tensioner for side mounting on the rafters
Parts for option 3

What you need per tensioner (8 parts, 2 sets per panel)

Each set consists of these parts (per shading panel you need 2 sets - one for each rafter side):

  • 1 mounting bracket (stainless steel, with a hole for the threaded sleeve)
  • 2 wood screws per bracket
  • 1 countersunk screw
  • 1 spring washer
  • 1 threaded sleeve (screwed onto the countersunk screw)
  • 1 stop element (plastic, the rope is fed through it)
  • 2 grub screws (they clamp the rope inside the stop element)
  • 1 tensioning element (screwed onto the threaded sleeve)
Fixing the stainless steel mounting bracket to the rafter with 2 wood screws
Step 1

Attach the mounting bracket

Choose the mounting position: to the side of the rafter ends (between the rafters) or underneath the rafter (beneath the rafters). For mounting from below: recommended distance to the roof 3 cm. Fix the mounting bracket with 2 wood screws. On aluminium or metal rafters a 4.5 mm pilot hole is mandatory.

Spring washer and threaded sleeve on the countersunk screw - assembly on the bracket
Step 2

Assemble countersunk screw, spring washer and threaded sleeve

Put the spring washer onto the countersunk screw. Screw the threaded sleeve onto the countersunk screw. Mount this assembly on the bracket by guiding the countersunk screw through the hole in the bracket.

Feeding the polyester rope through the stop element and fixing it with grub screws
Step 3

Clamp the rope in the stop element

Feed the rope through the stop element. Tighten both grub screws - they are offset so the rope is held securely and does not slip under load.

Screwing the tensioning element onto the threaded sleeve - the rope is tensioned
Step 4

Close the tensioning element

Screw the tensioning element onto the threaded sleeve so that it encloses the stop element. The tensioning element pulls the tensioner together and gives the rope the tension it needs. Do not tighten it too far - the rope should be taut, but not deformed.

Stainless steel cable tensioners on both sides - ropes running parallel
Step 5

Repeat on the opposite side

Carry out steps 1 to 4 on the opposite rafter. Check that both ropes run parallel.

Clipping the panels with their aluminum tubes into glides and stoppers - the finished installation
Step 6

Hang the glides and mount the panels

Thread the required number of glides onto both ropes. Fix the stopper to the last aluminum tube. Clip the aluminum tubes into the glides and stoppers.

Stiff glides and stoppers - how to make it easier

Option A - soap
Fabric-wrapped aluminum tubes are a tight fit in the glides and stoppers - that is intended, so nothing slips. If the resistance is too high: rub the spot on the glide or stopper with a bar of soap. Always start with the angled corner and then press in the straight side.
Option B - hot water
Put the glide or stopper into freshly boiled water for 5 minutes. The plastic becomes softer and slides onto the aluminum tubes far more easily. Once fitted, the material hardens again and sits firmly.
Optional

On a steeper slope - the cable tie trick

Cable tie on the last pair of glides to stop them slipping on a slope

On steeply pitched roofs the shading panels can slide down on their own when the ropes follow the slope. A cable tie solves this: fix the last pair of glides (on the movable side with hanger and eye) lightly to the rope with a cable tie. Not too tight - the glide must not be fully fixed, but it should not slide freely either. Try it out and adjust the tension of the cable tie as needed.

  • Identify the last pair of glides on the movable side
  • Lay the cable tie loosely around glide and rope - the glide must still be able to move
  • Tighten the cable tie until the glide meets noticeable resistance but is still movable
  • Test it: push the panel back and forth by hand - there must be no strong jerking

Parts in detail

If you would like to read more about the individual parts:

Polyester rope 2.2 mm for the cable tension awning

Polyester rope

Carrying rope 2.2 mm diameter, 1,800 N tensile load, flame retardant, maintenance-free. Lifetime guarantee on the rope.

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Plastic glides for hanging the shading panels

Glides

Plastic clips that hang the shading panels on the polyester rope. Low friction and smooth running.

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Stopper for fixing the last shading panel

Stopper

Fixes the last panel on the rope. Attached to the aluminum tube with an Allen screw.

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Operating rod 80 cm for operating the shading panels by hand

Operating rod

Operating rod 80 cm for opening and closing the shading panels by hand. Included in delivery.

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Configuring a made to measure cable tension awning in the configurator

Configure your cable awning

Your cable tension awning made to measure - put together fabric, dimensions and mounting kit in the configurator.

Go to the configurator
Cable tension awning product page with construction and function

Cable awning - product page

Overview of the cable tension awning: construction, how it works, fabrics and all mounting options at a glance.

Go to the product page
Frequently asked questions

Frequently Asked Questions

That depends on whether there is a fascia board at the front and at the back. If there is, option 1 (screw hooks in the fascia board) is the simplest solution. If there is no fascia board and you fix directly to the side of the rafters, take option 2 (iron brackets). If you prefer a compact stainless steel solution or want to position the fixing flexibly (to the side of or underneath the rafter), choose option 3.

Yes, on aluminium and metal rafters a pilot hole of 4.5 mm diameter is mandatory. Without a pilot hole the material tears open when the self-tapping screws M5x16 mm are driven in, and the connection will not hold reliably. On wooden rafters, wood screws 5x30 mm are enough without pre-drilling.

The rope should be taut, but not under extreme tensile load. An over-tensioned rope loads the fixing points unnecessarily and can stretch permanently. A good guide: you should barely be able to push the rope in with your finger, but it should not ring like a guitar string when you flick it. Turn the tensioner closed step by step and check the tension after each step.

Yes. Only with parallel ropes do the shading panels open and close cleanly. If the ropes form an angle to each other, the glides jam or the panels run crooked. So always measure the pairs of distances for the screw hooks or brackets identically at both ends before you clamp the ropes.

Two proven solutions: first, soap - rub the spot on the glide with a bar of soap and start with the angled corner. Second, hot water - put the glide into freshly boiled water for 5 minutes. The material becomes softer and slides on more easily. Once fitted, the glide hardens again and sits firmly.

Cable ties are only needed on a steeper roof slope. If the panels slide down on their own after installation, fix the last pair of glides lightly to the rope with a cable tie. The cable tie must not be pulled too tight - the glide has to stay movable, but must not have free play.

The screw hooks have to sit at the same distance on both sides of the rafter. Measure the distance on the left side, note it down and transfer it exactly to the right side. Only then will the ropes run parallel later and the panels glide without jamming.

Both are possible. To the side of the rafter ends (between the rafters) works well when the roof structure is accessible from the side. Underneath the rafter (beneath the rafters) is the choice when there is no room at the side or when the result should look more even. For mounting from below we recommend a distance of 3 cm to the roof, so the tensioners have enough room and the fabric does not rub.

Sources

Last reviewed: 21.08.2026 · Reviewer: Germes-Team

Do you need help with the installation?

Our customer service answers your questions by phone or e-mail. Or configure your cable tension awning directly in the configurator, with the mounting kit that matches your roof structure.

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